December 11th, 2012

Anyone who knows me, even slightly, will testify that Christmas is without a doubt my favourite time of year (to one friend, I am known as “Sarah Christmas”).  The Christmas I love is a nostalgic, traditional British one: Midnight Mass with my family, frosty dark village lanes, twinkling lights on real Christmas trees, mulled wine and mince pies in front of a roaring fire, friends drunkenly dancing arm in arm in the pub to classic Christmas tunes…

All the twee, obvious images we associate with Christmas are what makes it special to me and I am not ashamed to admit that I wholeheartedly embrace them all.  This will be our second Christmas away from home and so the festive nostalgia is reaching new heights.  I have realised that all of the things that I miss about this time of year are more about the people than the things themselves.  The Christmas tree and endless strings of lights makes me think fondly of my dad and the extremely serious trip that we usually take every year to pick the perfect tree.  Mince pies – in fact anything food related – makes me think of my mum and her spectacular baking skills which come into their own at Christmas.  The cheesy Christmas songs mean so much more when I am surrounded by amazing girlfriends who indulge my childish Christmas glee.

This realisation has made me promise myself to make the absolute most of future Christmas celebrations with those people when we are back in the UK.  For this Christmas however, we aren’t sure yet what the festive season in Medellín will hold for us.  As I write this (listening to Christmas music of course!) we don’t have any special plans.  Up to now however, our time in Medellín has highlighted that when your family and friends are a long way away, what better way to deal with the pain of missing them than by embracing new people and being grateful when they have generously shared their time and traditions with us.

We’ve been welcomed into so many different homes and lives in the last six weeks.  We had hoped that we would manage to put down some roots and make some connections in Medellín; our expectations have, as always, been exceeded.  In true Colombian style, doors have been opened, room has been made at the family table, we’ve been showered with invitations, love, laughter and affection.

It’s been overwhelming at times and has made me ache more than ever to see my family and friends at home, but of course I am also truly thankful and humbled by the warmth and friendship we’ve been offered here.  Wherever we spend Christmas this year, I don’t doubt we’ll be soaking up the hospitality and affection of our new friends and surrogate families in Medellín, whilst remembering the traditions and love of our wonderful family and friends at home too.


James, Carlos & Balthazar walking along the street in Loma de Los Bernal, Medellín

The first family we were welcomed into in Medellín was Carlos and Balti. A connection through a friend of a friend (thanks Emma and Sarah!) led to us staying with Carlos and his three year old son Balti for over two weeks.

James & Balthazar - Loma de Los Bernal, Medellín

Shy at first, Balti eventually warmed to us, particularly to James and their favourite pass times included balloon football, apartment tag and pulling silly faces.

Carlos serves up lasagne in his apartment - Loma de Los Bernal, Medellín

Carlos recently reached a landmark birthday and although we had since moved out, he invited us back to his place to help him celebrate. He insisted on cooking and as he's a very talented chef, we had no intention of arguing. Scrumptious lasagne followed by decadent tiramisu...thanks Carlos!

Ana Paulina riding her bike along the ciclovia in Medellín

Through an informal language exchange, I met Ana Paulina. Aside from sharing conversations in Spanish and English, we had some cultural exchanges too; James and I encouraged Ana back onto her bike for the first time in years....

Ana Paulina and family decorating the Christmas tree - Medellín

...while Ana encouraged James and I to join her and her family for delicious Antioquian food and to help decorate their Christmas tree.

Jorgé and Dorancy with James and Sarah enjoying bandeja paisa in Medellín.

We owe an enormous thank you to Jorge and his girlfriend Dorancy (aka "La Flaca") for introducing us to an extended family of friends, cyclists and opportunities. Jorge was our first point of contact in Medellín and without him, we certainly wouldn't have got to know the city and its wonderful inhabitants half as well. Our culinary introduction to Medellín came in the form of the gut busting Bandeja Paisa - the Antioquian equivalent to the "Full English".

Sarah and James in Halloween fancy dress - Medellín

We arrived in Medellín in time for Halloween so Jorge and Dorancy invited us to a mass cycle fancy dress...

Cyclists in fancy dress giving out sweets to the children of Moravia, Medellín

...and so we joined Medellín's tight knit family of cyclists. Around 2000 people in fancy dress and on bikes took to the streets of Medellín's Moravia neighbourhood. Handing out sweets to the kids and generally causing chaos, it was great to be a part of something so big and exciting.

Metrocable overlooking the city, on the way to Parque Arví, Medellín

Jorge has made sure we take in the essential experiences of Medellín too; we rode the breathtaking cable car above the city for amazing views and on to pretty Parque Arví, a nature reserve just outside of Medellín.

Stopping for a rest during a bike ride with Pacho - Medellín

Through Jorge, we had a chance meeting with one of his friends, Pacho. It didn't take long to discover a shared interest in bikes, coffee and of course food....

A view of Pacho's finca just outside of Santa Elena

...and before you could say "hospitable", we were invited to Pacho's finca for the weekend.

Pacho with five of the six dogs at the finca - Santa Elena

On arrival, we made ourselves comfortable along with their six dogs...

Don Raul sits on the patio at the finca - Santa Elena

...and Don Raul. Pacho's dad is quite possibly the funniest, sweetest 82 year old I have ever met.

Orchid on the finca - Santa Elena

Pacho lovingly introduced us to some of his beautiful orchids (this one is called orquidea zapato de dama or lady's shoe)...

Don Raul discusses maize grinding with Pacho - Santa Elena

...before we got down to business. We were invited to help with a family tradition of making "mazamorra", an indigenous drink made from maize. First Raul and Pacho have to agree on the best way to grind the maize in a traditional 'pilón'...

Don Raul watches as James starts grinding maize in the pilón - Santa Elena

...then James is allowed to help - all under the watchful eye of Don Raul of course.

Cata applies soap to the mazamorra pan to stop it from burning - Santa Elena

Cata, Pacho's partner, also gets to work. Preparing the enormous pan that will hold the mazamorra, she has to rub it all over with soap to stop the outside from burning when it's placed on the woodfired stove.

Pacho sorts the grain for the mazamorra - Santa Elena

Pacho carefully sorts the grains of maize by hand...

Pacho places the mazamorra pan on the outdoor fire - Santa Elena

...and after another grinding in the pilón, the maize is washed and added to water. It's placed carefully over the outdoor fire for more than two hours.

Pacho shelters under a parasol to avoid the rain - Santa Elena

Not even a torrential downpour that lasts all afternoon can distrct Pacho from his dedication to getting the traditional mazamorra just right.

Don Raul on the finca patio - Santa Elena

With Don Raul's experience, he has the right to oversee the whole process from the dry patio, shouting encouragement and advice.

Stripping corn from cobs - the finca, Santa Elena

More maize on day two and we're enlisted to help strip the kernels off the cobs of corn in preparation for making arepas - a thick maize tortilla, usually topped with butter and soft cheese.

Lina and Don Raul grind corn to make arepas - the finca, Santa Elena

There's more grinding to be done and this time it falls to Pacho's sister-in-law Lina to be shown the ropes by Don Raul.

Corn cobs grilling on the bbq at the finca - Santa Elena

The folks of Antioquia are known as "men of maize" - they just can't get enough of corn. So, true to their name, more corn is put on the bbq to grill and Pacho oversees the cooking while the rest of us chat on the patio after a long muddy walk with the dogs.

Arepa de chocolo in a pan on the bbq at the finca - Santa Elena

The labour of Lina's love, a delicious "arepa de chócolo" cooks gently on the bbq.

Pacho inside the finca - Santa Elena

After our maize feast, we retreat into the cosy finca, learning Colombian jokes and soaking up the banter of Don Raul, Pacho and the rest of the family.

Karola the labrador - Medellín

Back in the city, we should mention our own home in Medellín. Our temporary family consists of Nora our landlady, her 18 year old French poodle Pookie, the slightly rotund but adorable labrador Carola...

Agatha the cat - Medellín

...and the oh-so-cool Agatha the cat.

Harold's vintage bike decorated for Christmas - Medellín

The dinner invites kept on coming, this time with Harold and Lina. A delicious combination of roast pork, good chat and too much tequila. We couldn't help but admire a novel take on the traditional Christmas tree...

Nativity characters on show in Harold's flat - Medellín

...and of course the classic nativity - handmade by Lina's mum, it takes pride of place in the living room. Merry Christmas to all of our family and Medellín...and to all those we've met along the road in the last eighteen months.


11 Responses to “Family”

  1. Sam Wyld Says:

    Awesome set of pics, as always, my darlings. We miss you massively. Hope you don’t mind, but I’m having both your shares of mince pies and mulled wine this year… xxx


  2. Ruth Says:

    Wow! What a wonderful post :0) hope you guys have an amazing time over the festive season – I’m sure you will. Oh, & you should definitely do the bike Christmas tree when you’re back in Blighty – priceless! Xxx


  3. Jorge Iván Ballesteros Toro Says:

    Sarah y James, sin palabras por lo que nos han enseñado. Gracias por su humildad y amabilidad. Buena vibra, buena biela, buen pedal.


  4. Ma and Pa Says:

    Bless you both! Guess who blubbed while reading this?? Missing you both so much at this time of year and finding it really difficult to get interested in Christmas without you all. Will e-mail and arrange Skype tonight.
    Love and hugs and mince pie kisses.
    Ma and Pa


  5. Gayle and Mark Says:

    Wonderful blog post as ever guys! Amazing people, so generous in their hospitality, you are really seeing the ‘real’ country – but every time I read your blogs I think how vital your language skills are proving…! Noticing a lot less cycling right now too no?!

    We are getting all geared up for Christmas – Alice already starred as an Angel in her nativity and Henry working on hs king-like mannerisms for his next week…!
    We are sure that wherever you are thus year, your Christmas will be just as special in it’s own way. Lots of love, the Wharton clan xxxx


  6. Sarah G Says:

    Sarah and James, lovely post and pictures. I am glad you are doing well and hope that Christmas is enjoyable in Medellin. Enjoy the rest of your time!!! love from Sarahxx (and of course Balthi and Carlos!!)


  7. Ramone Says:

    Guys you’re not missing much back home! In fact one thing that will be useful to bring back home for future Christmas shopping is the pilon for grinding the mazamorra, to prod the shopping tourists out of the way!

    Love the Halloween cycling masks!! Can’t see how any kid would accept a sweet off either of you in those masks?

    Butcher where is the obligatory pose with the dogs?

    Much love and Merry Christmas

    Dave xx


  8. Carol Galus Says:

    This is Carol Galus. In Aug 2011 my husband and I met you in Sitka, Alaska, where we had a fish lunch together. Your adventure has inspired us to undertake an adventure of our own! After over a year of following your blog, we have just created our own travel blog and are in the late planning stages for a Western European RV trip over the next year. Plan to ship our RV out of Baltimore, Maryland, in early April and fly to Ramstein, Germany, eventually meeting up with our RV on a dock in Antwerp. You can’t imagine what an inspiration you have been to us! When our blog is perfected, we will share the website…


  9. anna Says:

    Hi there

    Happy Christmas and New Year!

    This is more of a request for advice than a comment… First and formost, do you have any advice about a good bike shop in Cartagena (I seem to remember you had bike work done there) and also any handy hints about accommodation there would be appreciated, too… I was hoping for CS or Warmshowers but seem to have drawn a blank. Any idea?




    anna Reply:

    [Sigh] I wish I had your email address. You haven’t considered a contact address somewhere on your blog have you…?

    I’m a bit desperate for help here with Cartagena. I’m not good with large touristy cities.


  10. Margy Says:

    Hi Both, Sorry this is so late, Have had a problem with the internet on my laptop for over 3 weeks!!!! however Dave came up on Boxing Day (I’m sure you know) and offered to have a look!!! I then had to go & buy something and Phil has just fixed it !!! am now trying to catch up on everything!!!
    We had a lovely Christmas, although very tiring! everyone seemed to be quite poorly, your Mum especially, and I think I was on the edge of it all, am now feeling very tired, so trying to take it easy.
    We had a super party at Helen & Phil’s for New Year, Casino & Poker and cocktails!!!! we all went and Katie, Nigel & Amelie, who Katie thought might last until 8 ish as she had been really poorly with a cold & cough!1 she was still going strong at 10.30pm but Katie was in desperate need of alcohol so they went home!!
    so, a very Happy New Year to you both and enjoy your stay! all love Margy xxxx


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